INTENSE NEO SOLAR HI-POWER LED - 6500K

The 'Intense' NEO Solar Hi-Power LED for Planted Tank aquarium light stands out from the rest with its simplicity of design and advanced optics. This all-in-one aquarium LED features an innovative, fully adjustable mounting arm to install on frameless aquariums with ease. It's ready to install, no need to purchase additional installation hardware. The mounting arm has four lockable, adjustable links that can be positioned to fit your needs. The Intense LED provides an outstanding shimmering effect in the aquarium water. Its 6500K white light mimics natural sunlight, promoting lush vibrant aquascapes for freshwater tanks.

What we love about these awesome LEDs:

• World's Most Powerful LED System for Planted Aquarium
• World's Most Reliable LED Chip - By Sharp Japan
• World's Most Highest Color Rendering Index - CRI 90
• World's Most Suitable Color Temperature For Aquarium Plants - 6500K
• World's Most Power Efficiency System >90%
• Word's First 100% Waterproof LED System

The NEO Solar is available now in 25W, 30W and 40W models and can be purchased here

They suit nano and large aquariums alike and can be grouped in a row to cater for longer aquariums.

Shop the Cal Aqua Labs Glassware range, with fast shipping across Australia.

The CAL AQUA LABS Difference

What makes CAL AQUA LABS' glassware unique?

All glassware is not equal. What distinguishes glassware by CAL from others can be summarized in the four major steps that every piece of CAL glassware is required to undergo:

Design

CAL AQUA LABS specializes in high-quality products for the planted aquarium. Their hand-made glassware uses only the highest quality, laboratory-grade glass imported from Europe for maximum strength, durability, and visual clarity. The products haveOur goal is to create innovative devices and improve upon existing designs in both physical form as well as its function and ease of use. Our glassware is designed to combine artistic form with function, resulting in glassware that is both elegant to look at as well as practical to use.

As soon as an idea for a device is conceived, our creative design team works closely with the master glass blower to finalize on a design that reveals the artistic elegance of glass as well as is practical to use. After that, several prototypes are made and tested to assess its performance, after which adjustments to the design are made. This process is repeated as required until a single optimized design has been chosen.
Material selection
At CAL, our stringent quality control starts early - at the material selections stage. It is here where the first round of quality control is carried out.
Not all glass is the same. Because of this, we exclusively use premium-grade borosilicate glass for our products for superior strength, durability, and clarity. Our glass tubes are from renowned glass manufacturers like Schott AG and Pyrex to assure superior quality and clarity. However, even within a single shipment, certain pieces can have minor defects or small blemishes. We carefully go through each piece within each lot by hand to select only the pieces without blemishes. Only flawless pieces move on for further processing.

Production

Each and every piece of CAL glassware is intricately handmade by highly experienced master glass-blowers. Every curve, bend, and joints require meticulous coordination as well as absolute precision in order for the final product to meet our stringent specifications. After the pieces have been formed, they undergo not one, but two separate heat treatment steps to strengthen the glass by relieving any strain that may occur during the production process.
The second round of quality control occurs here, where each piece of our glassware is carefully inspected by hand. It is here where the pieces that meet our specifications receive the CAL AQUA LABS insignia.

Quality Control

We value quality as much as we do innovation. After production, our glassware is individually inspected for the third time before being packaged. Each of our diffusers is individually tested by hand to assure that the ceramic diffuser discs perform evenly and the device functions according to specifications. Once the last round of inspection is performed, the glassware is then packaged and shipped out.

You have made your decision as to the size of tank and type of set-up you want, and you have bought the tank, stand, lighting, and the other necessary pieces of equipment. The tank has been set up in its permanent location in the room, you have readied the filter, or filters, for operation, and you have placed the heater into the position you want it. If doing a planted tank, you have also added your selection of rinsed substrate, driftwood, or any other décor, and put your desired arrangement of plants in place in the substrate. As a last step before plugging in and starting the filters and the heater, you have filled the tank, at least to a 90 % level, with conditioned warm tap water of at least 82 F.
It is now important to ensure the tank is cycled. NEVER, never introduce discus to an uncycled, or cycling tank. It can, and probably will, kill them. It’s cruel and expensive ! ‘Cycling’ can probably best be described as the growth of colonies of beneficial types of bacteria, called nitrifying bacteria. They are necessary because they neutralize ammonia, convert it into nitrites, and finally render the nitrites to produce nitrates. Ammonia and nitrites are toxic to fish, whereas nitrates are much less toxic, and generally harmless in moderately low concentrations. When you cycle a tank, you are really cycling the filter materials, or media. While there will be some bacterial presence on the tank glass walls, on driftwood or other decor, and in and on substrate, a majority of the bacteria will likely be in the filter(s), although a good amount may be located in the substrate. Colonies of beneficial bacteria can only develop and survive in the presence of ammonia. In a cycled aquarium, these bacteria will maintain themselves in sufficient quantities to render harmless all the ammonia and nitrites that are being produced in the tank by fish waste, and by decaying plant matter, uneaten decaying fish food, etc.
Fresh water from the tap has very little or no ammonia and no beneficial bacteria. One of the more accepted methods of starting the cycling process, called the fishless method, is to begin introducing store-bought ammonia (NH3) to a newly water filled tank. Bottled ammonia is readily available in approximately 10% concentration with only water added. Read the label. It should contain only ammonia & water - no dyes, fragrances, nor surfactants. It should be colorless and should NOT produce any foam when shaken. You can buy this ammonia at most discount or chain grocery stores or hardware stores.
With the filter on and the heater running, add sufficient ammonia to your tank to produce an ammonia test reading of 4 or 5 ppm (parts per million). Start by adding one teaspoon of ammonia for every ten gallons of water, or five teaspoons in a 55 gallon tank. Swirl it around and let it sit. Please note that ammonia at the dosage level suggested above is the quantity needed when using a 10 % concentration of ammonia in water. If you’re using 100% pure ammonia, the dosage will need to be reduced accordingly, i.e., by 10 times, - only six to eight drops of ammonia per 10 gallons, since a teaspoon contains about 80 drops of liquid.
Test the ammonia level and add more ammonia if necessary, a half teaspoon or so at a time, until a test shows a reading of 4 or 5 ppm. Then test daily or every second day until the ammonia level has dropped to around 2 ppm. This indicates that bacteria have begun to develop and neutralize the ammonia. Test for nitrites at this point; you should get a reading indicating that nitrites are present. Add more ammonia, a teaspoon or two at a time, to bring the level back up to 4 or 5 ppm, in order to maintain sufficient ammonia in your tank for the growing bacterial colony to consume and survive. Keep testing for ammonia and nitrites daily, or every second day, while at the same time adding ammonia regularly until the nitrites have spiked up to a high reading. It will take a few more days for a high nitrite level to drop to a low range, as the type of nitrifying bacteria that renders nitrites into nitrates take somewhat longer to grow and multiply.
Over time, when your testing regularly reads a ‘0’ level for both ammonia and nitrites anywhere from 12 to 24 hours after you have added your last dose of ammonia, you will know that the bacteria levels have developed in sufficient quantity to deal with the ammonia in the tank. At this stage, the nitrates level will be high. Do a large water change of 75% to 90% to reduce the nitrates to 20 ppm or less. Your tank has now fully cycled and is ready for fish. Remember, you need to keep adding ammonia in small amounts every day or so while your tank is cycling and the bacteria colonies are growing, so the bacteria colonies will not die off, until you are ready to add fish to the tank.
This process can take from two to six weeks, but this method will usually accomplish it in around three weeks. This can be speeded up considerably if you add some colonized material from an established, mature and healthy tank, such as a small quantity of substrate placed in a tied-up nylon bag, or if you add a seasoned filter media, like a foam pad.
One final note, if you’ve opted to begin with a planted tank, consider allowing some further time following the cycle to acclimate and start your plants’ growth before introducing the discus. A total cycling and seasoning period of 45 to 60 days should allow the plants sufficient time to become established.
The entire cycling process can be eliminated if you can buy a cycled sponge from the discus supplier, or add a seasoned, colonized filter with all of its media intact from an established healthy tank to your new tank. In this case, fish can be added immediately. If you do so, test your water daily for the first few days to ensure there is no ammonia or nitrites. This is to confirm that the size of the bacterial colony you have introduced is sufficient to deal with the fish bio-load you have placed in your tank. If you add cycled media it should come from the fish supplier or from another tank you have, not another source like a friend or the LFS.

This second option can be either discus only, or a “community” type tank with some other species of fish. For the hobbyist, there is arguably nothing more attractive than a well aquascaped discus display tank. It’s a sight to behold and could suit you well, particularly if you have previous experience keeping tropical fish in a planted tank environment.
The ratio of fish to size of tank will be reduced in this set-up, given the quantity of water taken up by substrate, plants and other décor. In this case you’ll want to either increase the size of your tank, or reduce the number of fish you’ll be keeping. For example, if you were planning to keep eight adults in a 75 gallon bare- bottom tank, you should reduce that number to six in the same-sized planted tank.
Secondly, for your discus’ sake your water temperature will need to be maintained at no less than 82 F – nothing lower will do – and that can pose a challenge for keeping plants, as many varieties do not do well at that temperature and above. Planted discus tanks entail more work and attention to keeping both elements healthy and thriving. Your focus will obviously have to be on the discus.
So, if you have no prior experience with a planted aquarium, you would be well-advised to go for a bare-bottom set-up, at least until you gain experience with discus. However, if you do have experience with planted tanks, you needn’t be fearful of giving it a go if you accept the challenge of the extra attention and diligence needed. It’s certain you will find it most satisfying and enjoyable. 

Discus are one of the most graceful, interesting, and arguably the most beautiful of all freshwater tropical fish. The fascination of keeping and raising these magnificent fish has taken the aquatics world by storm, and you’re one of the many wanting to get started with this very satisfying hobby.
This guide is intended to get you started on the right footing – to enable you to raise the “King of the Aquarium” in good health, with the least amount of start-up snags and problems.
Here’s how to get started!


AQUARIUM START-UP


A. TANK SIZE
Discus are relatively large fish, growing to 6 inches or more at maturity, measured from nose to tip of tail, and therefore require a good deal of tank space in order to reach their potential and thrive. I recommend you start off with the largest tank you can afford. This should be no less than 55 gallons, but more preferably in the 65 to 75 gallon range. If budget is a problem, buy a used tank. There are many to be found on Craig’s List in the United States and Canada.

B. TANK EQUIPMENT

1. Heating

Discus require a temperature range of 82 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit in order to thrive. You’ll need to acquire a heater of sufficient wattage to maintain the desirable temperature for keeping your discus, in accord with the size of your tank. As a guide, 4 or 5 watts per gallon should be sufficient– so a 250 watt heater should do nicely in a 55 gallon tank. Many heaters only have a maximum temperature setting of 86 Fahrenheit, it will be very difficult for such a heater to achieve and constantly maintain water temperature at the maximum setting level, particularly if your tank is uncovered or partially uncovered. It is best therefore to get a heater with a maximum setting level of 93 Fahrenheit. There are a number of reliable makes on the market, so you will have a good selection to choose from.

1. Filtration

There are three types of filtration, i.e. biological, mechanical and chemical.

1. Biological filtration refers to the breakdown of toxic ammonia and nitrites, and then into nitrates by a colony of bacteria. These bacteria are often referred to as ‘beneficial’, or ‘nitrifying’ bacteria.
2. Mechanical filtration refers to the process of removing solid waste matter and other particulates from the water column. Examples include foam pads and flosses.
3. Chemical filtration removes chemical impurities and discolorations and clarifies the water. Carbon is often used for this purpose.

All three types of filtration can be maintained, or ‘housed’ if you will, in the actual filter container types that you select for your tank, whether that be a Hang-On-Back (HOB), or canister. A sponge filter will provide for biological and some mechanical filtration. Your colony of beneficial bacteria will establish itself in or on tank surfaces, but primarily on and within whatever filter media you elect to use in your filtration container(s).
There are many reliable types of filters to choose from. Many, if not most, discus keepers raise their fish in bare-bottom tanks and they usually employ one or more sponge filters, often supplemented by either HOBs or canister filters, to provide for all their filtration needs. In a planted tank, the preference seems to be to use either HOBs, or canisters, or both together, and to forego sponge filtration, primarily for aesthetic reasons.
The size of the tank, its purpose, and your preference will determine the needed type, size and capacity of the various filters which are available to choose from. Capacity is measured by the volume of water turned over each hour. A complete turnover of at least four times an hour is suggested as being suitable. An example of adequate filter capacity for a 55 gallon tank would be to use a filter rated for tanks up to 70 or 80 gallons, and which has an average water flow rate of 200 or more gallons per hour. This will result in a complete water turnover rate in the tank of approximately four times an hour.

1. Test Kits and Other Essentials

One of the most important items of equipment you will need are test kits to test your water on a regular basis for the presence of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, and to determine the Ph, and general and carbonate hardness levels.
While your local fish store (LFS) will very likely provide a water testing service at no cost to you, this can be quite inconvenient. With your own test kits, you will be able to quickly check your water parameters at any time. This will allow you to ensure your ongoing tank care is being maintained as it should, and to determine if your water is the culprit should problems occur.
Once your tank is fully cycled and ready to house fish, the test for both ammonia and nitrites should read “0”, and nitrates should be less than 20 milligrams per liter (mg/L). Your Ph test should reflect a steady, stable maintenance of Ph anywhere between 6.0 and 8.0. For discus-keeping, your water’s General Hardness (GH) can suitably be anywhere between a low of “0” to a high of 200 mg/L, whereas Carbonate Hardness (KH) should generally be between 40 and 100 mg/L.
You will also want to equip yourself with other essential items, such as a water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines, and other undesirable elements from your tap water. A water conditioner should be used at start-up when cycling your tank, and whenever replacing water during water changes.
Other needed items are a thermometer, fish net, siphon hose, five gallon bucket or pail for water changes, sponge, scrub brush, perhaps a water barrel for ageing water (a food-safe garbage pail will do), extra filter media items such as filter floss, foam pads, etc. and of course, some fish foods. If you’re doing a planted tank, you’ll need substrate, plants, driftwood and/or rocks, etc.
Once you have decided on the size of your tank, you’ll need a sturdy stand to carry the weight. A filled tank, with substrate, driftwood, etc., will average around 10 lbs. per gallon, so a 55 gallon tank will weigh over a quarter of a ton. Buy a ready-made stand that is specifically designed to maintain the weight of the type and size of tank you are getting or, if you are going a home-made route, get some expert help to ensure it is properly braced and structured to accommodate the weight.
As for lighting, you won’t need extra strong, bright lighting for discus. Low light will do, perhaps in the range of around one to two watts per gallon. For a planted tank, this should prove adequate for many, if not most, of the hardy, easy to grow plants that will also tolerate the higher temperature you will be maintaining for your discus.

C. TANK SET-UP CHOICES

1. Bare-Bottom Tank
This set-up is by far the most preferred approach by both newcomers to the hobby and experienced aquarists alike, for “growing-out” juvenile discus or for keeping adults. It is generally regarded as the easiest for maintenance purposes, and the most successful way of keeping discus. It allows you to readily spot any build-up of uneaten food, fish feces, or other matter, and quickly siphon it off at any time. It makes it easier to undertake more frequent and larger water changes to promote better and quicker growth of juveniles, to maintain a high level of water quality at all times, and to more easily clean tank glass, as well as to service or change equipment. A bare bottom tank is easier to medicate if that should ever prove necessary.

Delve into the enchanting Orient and marvel in these stunning Malaysian Oranda Goldfish. We have 50 A-grade quality fish available in 12-13cm and 14cm sizes, starting at only $100 ea.

These fish are perfect for Winter, as Goldfish generally don't require a heater if kept indoors, at room temperature.

We strive hard to bring you the best quality Goldfish in Australia. We regularly have new stocks of Fancy Goldfish imported from Malaysia and other parts of Asia. Enquire within if you are looking for particular strains.

These German-imported, Premium Solid Red Discus are the first ever to be released in Australia.

Their vibrant red colour, high body, perfect shape and gorgeous facial "mosaic-like" markings make them stand out from the rest.

Sydney Discus World Aquariums specialises in the "King of the Tropical Aquarium", the prized Discus fish. 

Why should you buy from us?

• All of our fish are wormed fortnightly to ensure optimum health and strength
• We feed all of our Discus a combo of beefheart, Sera Flora and bloodworms, as opposed to normal fish food which some Local Fish Stores practice.
• We have over twenty years looking after Discus
• We have excellent post-sales care. If you have any questions, please contact us. We'd be glad to help!

Come and watch these gorgeous fish for yourself instore, or buy now to avoid disappointment. 

A highlight of this shipment are several varieties of the gorgeous Bristlenose.

Several different strains of the popular Bristlenose have been developed. The Longfin Bristlenose is a selectively bred form with attractively patterned, long flowing fins. A very good algae-eating catfish, hardy and undemanding, they adapt to most aquarium conditions.  They grow to about 10-12cm.

Do not keep with fin-nippers such as Tiger Barbs and Rosy Barbs. 

Our new shipment of the beautiful Albino Longfin Bristlenose is definitely a piece of eye-candy as well as a loyal, hardworking cleaner.They are available now instore for $17.95 ea. (size 3.5-4.5 cm).

The rest of our new stock of Tropical Fish that we unpacked at Sydney Discus World Aquariums include:

1.Golden Sucking Catfish  $ 4.95 - 6 cm:

2. Longnose Whiptail Catfish $12.95 - 8 cm:

3.Clown Loach $12.95 - 8 cm:

4.Neon Tetra $2.00 - 2.5cm:

5. Rummy Nose Tetra $2.50 - 2.5 cm:

6.Cardinal Tetra $3.00 3.0cm:

7.Borneo Sucker $15.00 10cm:

8. Super Delta Betta -  $ 20.00:

9.Blood Red Rose Barb $ 5.00 - 6 cm:

10. Assorted Platy fish - $2.00:

11.Balloon Ram - $16.95 6 cm:

12. ELECTRIC Blue Ram - $10.00  - 5 cm:

13. Sri lankan Guppy Assorted - $2.50 cm: